Published on August 23, 2014 17:15
Most of my fascination for the grassland comes from the vast and vast "cattle and sheep are seen in the grass when the wind blows". What little Zhu Xin thinks about is the salivating roast whole sheep in the grassland. One of the reasons why we have not been able to leave these years is the long distance, and the other is that we do not have a suitable charter partner. This year, I happened to spend time with my friends and family, and finally I arrived at my grassland trip.
Although the summer vacation is very long, the time for the two families to get together is only in the middle of August (August 8 - August 18). We didn't know it was a bad time until we got to the grassland: the flowers were in full bloom at the beginning of July, and the golden leaves could be seen at the end of August. In the middle of August, it can be said that the grassland had just entered autumn, and the flowers had withered and the leaves had not turned yellow; August is the peak period of grassland tourism (the parent-child tour promotes this peak, and it is estimated that the children are only free in August). The house price doubles, which is like a small rocket in the words of our drivers; The worst is the rainy season in the grassland. There are not many rainy days in Hulunbeier, but the weather forecast for the period we went there reported rain every day. The beautiful scenery of Hulunbuir is on the road. It is directly affected by the weather. Without the blue sky and white clouds, is it still the grassland in mind? And affected by the rain, the road is muddy, so many places can't go. So "time" is really a key factor in a grassland trip.
It's still a simple question about going back and forth to Tibet. During the summer vacation, the cost of air tickets is more expensive. It takes less than 4 hours to fly directly from Shanghai to Hailar. If you pay more attention, you can buy tickets with lower discount, and the round-trip cost is less than 4000 yuan; You can also fly from Shanghai to Harbin (3 hours), and then take the train from Harbin to Hailar (10 hours), which adds up to more than 2000 yuan. But there is one thing about the train from Harbin to Hailar. In the peak season, ordinary people can't buy a sleeper. This is my personal experience. I can't get a sleeper even if I stay in front of the computer 20 days in advance. At the beginning of ticket sales, it shows that there is no sleeper. Fortunately, I had planned to take a hard seat. There is a way to book it. Ask the Chartered bus master who contacted you earlier. Many of these tickets have been taken away by travel agencies and related people.
The third is the problem of car charter, which is another key factor in whether the grassland tour is enjoyable or not. Through the introduction of friends who have been there, we contacted a master long ago, and we have been communicating with him on wechat. But to tell you the truth, we always feel uneasy before we meet. After all, the 7-day trip is completely given to a stranger. To be pessimistic is to listen to others. The most unexpected thing is that the driver who contacted us well before departure actually transferred us to his friends. Of course, the final result is good. Looking all the way, I think most of the drivers on the grassland are OK. On that road, the itinerary of several scenic spots is almost the same; Accommodation is almost the same, there is no choice in remote small places, the price is also common (ordinary standard room is between 300-400); In terms of food, the Northeast cuisine is large and delicious. Anyway, the dishes Xiao Meng took us to were delicious. Our car is Ruifeng with seven seats (900 yuan per day). In a word, when you go out, sometimes you can't care too much. Take things as they are and communicate more, you will have a perfect journey.
My itinerary is:
Shanghai - Shenyang (plane) - Hailar (train) - Hailar (train) - Hailar - Harbin (train) - Shanghai (plane) - a total of 11 days. The train from Shenyang to Hailar takes a little longer than 18 hours. When you choose to get in and out of Hailar from different places of Shenyang and Harbin, you can visit both Shenyang and Harbin by the way.
The last charter route is to refer to the itinerary of the forest outdoor club "Blue Mongolian Plateau - entering the last deer guarding tribe for 7 days". The biggest change is to live in Linjiang for two days; But heisantou couldn't stay for one night, and the sixth day's journey was a bit late.
Charter: D1, Hailar - Jinzhanghan - Erguna - Genhe 250km
D2. Gen River delpur moldoga Bailu island moldoga 340km
D3. Mordaoga Taiping Village laoyingzui Linjiang 90km
D4. Linjiang Shiwei Linjiang 22km
D5, Linjiang Shiwei Enhe 120km
D6, Enhe Erguna Heishantou Manzhouli 540km
D7, Manzhouli Hailar 200km
Specific itinerary:
D1: August 8:
Shanghai Pudong Airport - Shenyang Taoxian Airport (departure time 7:15, arrival time 9:40)
The airport is located in Taoxian Township, Dongling District, Shenyang City, about 22 kilometers away from the center of Shenyang City. Check your luggage at Shenyang north railway station first.
Take the airport line 1: the airport bus station (Huyue Express Station) is about 500 meters away from the north railway station. Ticket price: 15.5 yuan; Driving distance: 1 hour. All the way from the airport to the urban area, Shenyang is really a modern metropolis with tall buildings, wide streets and good greening. Shenyang north railway station is even more grand. It is the best built railway station I have ever seen. It is surrounded by tall financial buildings and Carrefour supermarket.
Visit Shenyang Palace Museum and dashai mansion in the afternoon
Shenyang Palace Museum is one of the two existing complete palace buildings in China. The imperial palace before the entry of Houjin was also the Shengjing Palace (also known as Fengtian Palace) after the Qing Dynasty moved its capital to Beijing. It is located at 171 Shenyang Road, Shenhe District; Admission: 60 yuan; Half the students.
Take bus 333 at the railway station - daximen station (Huaiyuanmen) and get off (7 stations) (the whole journey is 4.8km). The fare is 1 yuan
Shenyang Palace Museum is very small, there are no cultural relics, only old and vicissitudes.
Zhang's mansion is located at No.48 shaoshuaifu lane, Chaoyang Street, Shenhe District (about 1.5 km from the Forbidden City to the south by East)
Pass 50 yuan, including dashai mansion, Zhao Yidi's former residence and Shenyang Financial Museum.
The former residence of Miss Zhao Si is nothing to look at. The Financial Museum is rich in things. It is like a labyrinth with many pavilions.
Return: take bus No.105 at dananmen Station - Shenyang North Station (11 stops), the fare is 1 yuan
There is a Carrefour supermarket beside Shenyang north railway station to buy the food on the next day's train.
Evening: Shenyang North - Hailar k1301 (departure time: 22:19) hard seat 152.5 yuan
D2: August 9, Shenyang Hailar arrival: 16:24 (morning and Chinese meals on the train)
Accommodation: Hailar (2 rooms, 2 halls, 260 yuan, extra bed, 80 yuan, 5 people) is clean and warm.
Hotel Address: Tianshun new town in front of Hailar railway station, Hulunbuir city( 100 meters southeast of railway station)
As soon as I got out of Hailar railway station, I was caught in a torrential rain. The innkeeper said that it would rain from today on in Hailar
D3: August 10
Hailaer - Jinzhanghan - Erguna - Genhe 250km, get up in the morning to see the sky, it's cloudy, but fortunately it hasn't rained yet. 7: At 30, Xiao Meng came to pick us up. He took us to breakfast first, and then bought two boxes of mineral water (Xiao Meng said that the water in the grassland is hard, so we can't get used to it, so we all drink it with mineral water), and our "grassland flying horse" set out(“ "Grassland flying riding" is the name of Xiao Meng's team, which belongs to an outdoor club. The first to arrive is a tower and two temples in Hailaer suburb. There is no flicker of golden roof in the sun, only the loneliness of early morning.
The car went on, and we came to chenbalhu banner. We began to see the grassland, the yurts, and the flocks of cattle and sheep... But we couldn't get excited. We always felt sorry because there was no blue sky, and the grassland lost too much color, and the blue sky was the most normal here. Xiao Meng showed us the photos in his mobile phone, each of which was blue sky and white clouds, He also kept saying that it didn't rain much here. It only rained in autumn these two days. Well, we are so lucky to see that ordinary people can't see the grassland. My friend sent me a wechat, and no one else believed it was in the prairie? In fact, the grass has been cut in the current season. There is no scene of "cattle and sheep are seen in the grass when the wind blows". However, there is always a surprise. We actually see the grass buttress. The grassland scenery is also vivid because of the decoration of the grass buttress. The grass buttress everywhere makes us full of interest. Little friends climb up and down around the grass buttress.
There is the murigele River, the "best River in the world". The panoramic view is very beautiful. However, because of the rain, it's a pity that Xiao Meng's car can't drive to the top of the mountain to see the view.
Jin'enghan tribe has to charge tickets. Xiao Meng said that the scenery inside is the same as the grassland outside, so we didn't pay for it. Anyway, we don't spend much money on tickets. Xiao Meng always takes us to the observation platform on the side to see the scenery. The master of the Chartered bus will emphasize that the scenery is on the road, so we don't have to pay for the tickets. This is probably the biggest difference with the travel agency. The travel agency was full of crowded people everywhere, but there were few people where we stopped all the way.
We had a delicious roast lamb chops for lunch, 68 yuan per kilo, to 2 jin, a big piece, to cut their own, never eaten delicious ah! After lunch, I learned that God is good for us. In the morning, I saw that the overcast day on the grassland had already favored us, and now the rain is falling. Xiao Meng regretfully told us that we can't go to the top of the mountain where we can see the scenery in Genhe wetland. We can't drive up such a heavy rain car. Even if we buy tickets to enter the park, we can't see much. So we had to drive to the place where we stayed at night - Genhe. In fact, all the way from Erguna to Genhe is wetland. In the afternoon, it cleared up for a while, and we saw the graceful posture of the Genhe river. After the rain, the scenery of the wetland had a graceful southern style
It's six o'clock to get to Genhe residence. Although the weather is a bit regrettable, the first day of the grassland trip still gave us harvest, and then we went on praying that it would be fine tomorrow, because Xiao Meng always comforted us that the weather forecast in Hulunbuir was not accurate.
D4: on August 11, 340km from Gen River to derpur to moldoga, Bailu island to moldoga
Get up early in the morning, not as good as yesterday, the sky has been floating drizzle, we took the car. There is a reindeer garden in Aoxiang in Genhe. Xiao Meng said that the ticket here costs 80 yuan, that is, there are more plank roads built in the woods, and there is a museum. He took us to derpur to see it. It only costs 30 yuan. To be honest, it's raining. I'm not interested in going anywhere. Whatever. From Genhe to mordaoga, we have entered the forest zone, which belongs to the Great Xing'an Mountains. The temperature here is the coldest in Genhe, and it is minus 50 degrees in winter. It snowed here just two days after we left Genhe. There are forests on both sides of the road. We'll open and open along the forest. It's raining all the time. Many leaves have turned yellow. Xiao Meng said that they will all turn yellow in a week. When we arrived at the reindeer Park, it was still raining. It was inconvenient to hold an umbrella. There are not many reindeer in it. They are not afraid of people at all. As long as you have bread in your hand, they run after you; There are a lot of sika deer. They are tamely kept in the fence. Horses, dogs and rabbits are all here. Everyone is in harmony.
Lunch at the sister hotel, the biggest hotel in moldoga. This is indeed the most luxurious hotel in moldoga. The first floor is full of private rooms, and the second floor can hold weddings. The taste of the dish is also very good. It's the first time I have a large plate full of pork.
In the afternoon, you can go to moldoga Forest Park (admission: 160 yuan). All the strategies say that this park is boring. The only good thing is that you can get to Bailu island from the park (38 kilometers, your own car can drive in). There is a mountain nearby moldoga that you can climb, but the rain is boring. We discussed with Xiao Meng not to enter the forest park, and we drove directly from the outside road to Bailu Island (the distance is 100 kilometers). There is a toll gate near Bailu island. Fortunately, the landlady who stayed in our hotel called for us. It worked well and let us pass (I still have to say it was from this road to Qiqian). The scenery of Bailu island is really good. The camera has no wide angle and can't get the effect at all. Although the light rain falls from time to time, some of the fog, but the nature of this landscape is still very relaxed and happy. It's still raining at night, and there's no chance to see the stars in moldoga.
D5: August 12, mordaoga Taiping Village laoyingzui Linjiang 90km
When I get up in the morning, I have no hope for the sunshine, as long as it doesn't rain. Today, although the road is not far away, it's all rural roads, a bit bumpy. The field of vision is wider than yesterday. Wild flowers, forests and distant mountains are like ink paintings passing by the car. There are also large tracts of wheat fields that I have never seen before
Taiping village is a quiet small village, with more than ten acres of square houses and 89 thatched cottages; In front of the hall of peach and plum trees and behind the eaves of elm and willow trees. Most tourists eat, have a picnic and fish here; Swing at the door and have fun with the dog. After the rain of peace, fresh, elegant, simple, quiet, really let me have a sense of paradise.
Towards the old eagle's beak, there was a light in the distant sky. I said goodbye to the forest. There was a vast expanse ahead. I just stared at the sky. The sun was hidden deep in the thick clouds, struggling to show a little bit. It was still futile, but we seemed to have seen the hope. The old eagle's beak is a rock like an eagle. The scenery around this place is very open. People here have become the smallest ornament of nature.
When approaching the river, the scenery is completely different. The car goes along the boundary river, and the opposite bank is Russia. The Erguna river flows meandering. It is difficult to describe the rich colors and layers of trees and mountains in the distance. Nature is so unadorned and pure. Her casual heavy colors have surpassed countless well-designed gardens. Although the sky has not cleared up, my heart has cleared up
In the constant impact of the beautiful scenery all the way, Linjiang arrived. To tell you the truth, I am very disappointed to see Linjiang at first sight. Linjiang is known as "the most beautiful village in China", which I can't believe. A narrow village road is full of horse dung and garbage. The wooden houses standing on both sides of the road have no beautiful color. It is the most original village, and the rooms are also the narrowest in our trip. We asked to stay here for two nights. After putting down our luggage, we went to the river near the village.
The children had a lot of fun by the river, picking up stones, floating in the water and going fishing until the sun set. The sun is still playing hide and seek with us, hiding behind the clouds. The setting sun near the river should be one of the beautiful scenery, but we missed it again. Paulie's dinner was delicious, too. Pauli has a Russian face, but he speaks fluent Northeast Chinese. He can see many Chinese Russian hybrids in Linjiang and realizes that this is a border village.
D6: August 13 Linjiang -- Shiwei Linjiang [22km]
I got up at 3:30 to see if I could see the sunrise, open the curtains, and it was raining again. I was completely desperate. Go on sleeping. Besides the river in front of the village and the South Mountain and North mountain behind the village, there are no other sceneries along the river. So Xiao Meng took us to Shiwei first, so that we could arrive at Enhe earlier tomorrow. Everyone agreed. Shiwei is only 11km away from Linjiang. Shiwei is one of the top ten charming towns in China. It's much more clean and tidy than Linjiang. The scenery is beautiful. It's said that it has a strong commercial atmosphere. We didn't eat and stay there, so we didn't feel it. Just as soon as we got off the car, someone stared at you and asked if you were riding a horse, which was a little disgusting.
After visiting Shiwei, Xiao Meng took us to a nearby tribal scenic spot under construction. Tickets will be opened next year. This year we can get free tickets. It's sunny at noon. It's hot in the sun. A large area of hillside, you can pick wild flowers, climb haystacks, but the day is hot, we have no spirit.
On the way back, the sunshine was just right, and I saw the wheat waves rolling
Back to Linjiang for lunch, it's almost 2 o'clock. After a short rest, we decided to climb the Nanshan behind the village, which is actually a small mound, but we have a good view of the scenery. Unexpectedly, we caught up with a storm... The evil black cloud kept pressing down and pushing forward to our sky from a distance. We fled home.
After the storm, we were looking forward to a rainbow, and from Paulie's backyard we went up the north mountain. Overlooking Linjiang village from Beishan, you can't see the mud and garbage. In the embrace of mountains, Linjiang is really beautiful. The wild flowers all over the mountains, the leisurely horses, the smoke in the evening, the colorful roofs, the quiet river, if there is sunset, it is the most perfect picture. At this moment, I fell in love with Linjiang, which makes people quiet, relaxed and open-minded
The sky has not completely cleared up. There is a blue sheepish on the side of the mountain, but a red glow suddenly appears on the other side of the river
The rainy day in Hulunbuir is finally over, and we have a sunny day
D7: August 14 Linjiang - Shiwei - Enhe 120km
Blue sky and white clouds all the way, birch forest all the way. It's sunny after the rain. Although the sky is slightly blue and the clouds are slightly gentle, we are satisfied with it. When you get to Enhe, you can see the birch forest and the meandering water of the forest by passing by the Hauer River scenic area. The ticket is 30 yuan and half price for students. This is the second time that we have bought tickets. It's worth seeing.
When we arrived in Enhe Russian Nationality Village, we were stunned by the beautiful scenery. The cows were so lovely that we rushed into their territory and took photos with them. Most of them were calm and motionless, busy basking in the sun or eating grass.
There are 50% of the Russian residents in Enhe Township, whose scale is smaller than that of Shiwei. The woodcut houses are more beautiful and emotional than those of Shiwei and Linjiang. There are flowers at each door. The architectural styles are diverse and the colors are gorgeous. There are Russian aunts who often walk by the door, which is quite a feeling of a European town.
We live at the entrance of Enhe township. It takes 15 minutes to walk to the center. Although the internal accommodation is good, I still envy living in a beautiful house in the town. As the sun goes down, it's time for the cows to go home.
In the evening, the town should smell of roast lamb chops. Maybe there is a campfire at night. By contrast, our place is too cold and clear. In the evening, I didn't have any interest to come out again.
Because I stayed in Linjiang for an extra night before, today's trip is the same as the original two days and one day, which is a bit of a rush. First pass the famous birch forest, but a little disappointed, probably too many people did not feel. On the contrary, the scenery along the road is good.
From Erguna to Manzhouli, the scenery is basically a mixture of grassland and wetland. Xiao Meng took us to several hillsides to see the wetlands, including Genhe wetland, nameless wetland, and the most beautiful wetland is No. 33 wetland near Heishantou (a guard charged 20 yuan for vehicle entrance and exit, which is worth it!) Hulunbeier: a view from high!
On the sixth day, I was basically tired of aesthetics. The grassland along the way was vast and boundless. The road was straight. There was blue sky and grassland around 360 degrees, and there was no other color except blue and green. At this time, a beautiful house will make us feel excited
In the evening, I finally arrived in Manzhouli. A small town full of exotic atmosphere. In Manzhouli, I saw the rainbow, the square performance of the Russian song and dance troupe, and the bar tiger hot pot that I will never forget.
D9: August 16, 200km from Manzhouli to Hailar
Why can I say that balhu hot pot will make me unforgettable for life? It's not only that he used the best mutton of Xiqi, but also that after this gluttonous period, our small team of five fell down. Before that, there were two people who had gastrointestinal discomfort (stomachache, diarrhea, loss of appetite, lack of spirit), only three people who had always been strong went to eat hot pot with Xiao Meng and waited in line for a long time. It's really delicious. Maybe the meat in the grassland is too thick. We drink iced drinks. The next day, everyone except the driver began to feel sick and listless. It was estimated that our stomach was homesick. In the morning, I went to Guomen, taowa square and Museum. No one was interested in Hulun Lake, so they went straight back to Hailar.
It's easy to walk from Manzhouli to Hailaer road. There's a section of high speed. It's very fast. I still passed many grassland tribes, but everyone was so weak that I didn't even want to get off. So I arrived at Hailaer at more than 3 o'clock and went back to the starting point. When I passed by one pagoda and two temples, I saw the golden top. I went in the wind and rain and came back in the sun. It was 1500 kilometers in seven days. We had a taste of grassland, wetland, forest, wheat field, forest and so on The exotic town... Hulunbuir, half rainy and half sunny, the honest and enthusiastic driver Xiao Meng, and a large plate of delicious beef and mutton gave us a beautiful and unforgettable journey. Goodbye, Hulunbuir!
Xiao Meng took us to Hailar airport and railway station respectively (my friend's family came by direct flight) and we were reluctant to say goodbye.
My train is k7092 (departure time 20:13, from Manzhouli to Harbin) hard seat 102 yuan, 10 hours drive. Hailar's waiting room is much worse than Shenyang. This train is simply crowded, many people without seats, standing in the aisle, basically no walking space. A lot of people are tourists. I heard that everyone is exchanging their experience of the grassland trip. Some people are disappointed. They said that we met a bad driver. I think we are very lucky.
D10: August 17, Harbin
Arrived at Harbin railway station on time at 6:30 in the morning, and finally survived a hard night. It seems that it is always difficult to go from luxury to simplicity.
Take a taxi from the railway station to the hotel: (4.5km) 13 yuan. Before going out, the spring fashion Express Hotel (Zhaolin Park store) ordered by Ctrip is close to the flood prevention memorial tower and central street. The hotel was very good. We checked in early in the morning. We went to make up for sleep and got up at 12 o'clock. In the afternoon, I went to central street, Sophia Church and coffee shop for a while.
In the evening, go to the riverside wharf and take a cruise ship to Taiyang Island (the ticket is 10 yuan). At this time, the tourists of Taiyang island are rare and comfortable. Under the setting sun, Harbin by the river is very beautiful.
D11: August 18, Harbin - Shanghai
Wake up naturally in the morning, go out at 9 o'clock, take a taxi to civil aviation building (16 yuan) and take airport line 1 (20 yuan, 1 hour)
Arrive at Harbin airport before 11:00, and the plane takes off at 12:45 (9c8966); 15: Arrive in Shanghai on time at 30.
The total cost is 5500 yuan.
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