Days: 10 days
Time: November
Per capita: 15000 yuan
With whom: one person
Play: free travel, photography, gourmet forest, self driving
The author went to these places
turkey
Kapadochia
Rose Valley
Fethier
Antalya
Galata Bridge
Strait of Bosporus
Maiden Tower
Hagia Sophia
Galata Tower
taksim square
Pashabe
Fairy Chimneys
Erludeniz
Izmir
Kashi town
Published on 2021-02-24 20:08
At the time of coding, I just saw such questions, about some moments, some reasons that supported us to continue to work hard in the dull years. Think about it, there are those times: a good glass of wine; A kindness from a stranger; A cat takes the initiative to be intimate; And when we meet again, those who want to open their arms first
When a person squats down in Turkey, there is a cat coming to the street, a cup of hot wine in the valley, and pink clouds to meet strangers. These moments eventually become the stories I miss in late autumn in Turkey.
After shooting the sunrise in the Rose Valley of cappadoccia, I was suddenly left alone in the shadow valley. The bustling hot-air balloon sunrise the second before seemed like an illusion. A little nervous to pack up the equipment, hurry down the mountain. Along the way suddenly flash out of the Turkish man, holding a few pancakes, asked: "Hey, do you want to try the authentic turkish pancakes" vigilantly refused, continue to go“ It's made by my mom. It's cheesy. " He added after me. I kept going. After walking about 100 meters, I hesitated to stop, turned around and looked at his back sitting alone on the edge of the valley. I stepped forward again and asked, "excuse me, can I take a picture for you?"
His name is Guha. He said that this gesture means "great wolf". Great wolf used to be a party in Turkey and got 12% of the national support. This gesture has become a powerful wall brick for me to start the non tourist conversation mode in the next eight days. I took off my shooting clothes and sat down beside him to listen slowly. At this point, I finally opened the "chatterbox" of my trip to Turkey. Fortunately, this is the second day of the trip“ I work night shift in this mountaintop cafe and watch the tourists every day. At sunrise, it's like there was a party here. You know, 25 years ago, there were no tourists in this valley, only a few local people went up the mountain. Every family grows grapes and makes wine. Overnight, it's all hot air balloons and tourists. There's no more grapes. " I didn't say, "pigeons, yes, pigeons are very important to us. Excrement and corpses will be buried under the grape trees. They are very good fertilizer. At that time, vineyards were everywhere, just like the one behind you." I looked back and saw that it was a very small plant“ Well, but it's really beautiful here. "I tried very hard to find a word to catch his melancholy“ I don't have much to do. I work here at night, and I go to a coffee shop in town during the day. You see, I'm off work now, and we've finished our cakes. " Looking back, I found that I was so hungry. Unconsciously, I ate up the pancakes made by other people's mothers. It was made by Turkish mothers.
Declined Guha and his colleagues down the mountain ride, gave up the idea of rushing down the mountain. I was sitting alone on the edge of the cliff, with wine still hot on the charcoal fire in the furnace, facing the Rose Valley, enjoying a hot-air balloon feast and drinking a cup of hot wine in the cool wind.
road map
Beijing Istanbul (aviation) Istanbul kapadochiya (aviation) kapadochiya Fethiye (self driving) Fethiye pantela, Kashi (self driving) Kashi chateau, Antalya (self driving) Antalya Istanbul (aviation) Istanbul Beijing (aviation)
Istanbul - a city in no hurry
Mr. kadman, a Turk who met in the hotel, chatted late into the night, and his friends joined us on the spot. We consumed cup after cup of tea in the hall. It seems that the middle-aged man in his 40s and 50s is not married and lives with his sister“ Yes, we Turks are similar to Chinese people in this respect. It's normal for us to live with our parents before we get married. But Cadman's situation is a bit special His friend added Yes, a few years ago, my parents passed away What Mr. cardman said was particularly plain. The reason why he got familiar with Mr. cardman was that we found that Turkey and China had similar history and culture, which inevitably gave birth to some inexplicable sense of identity. At the end of the Ottoman Empire, the aura of the former empire was lost, just like the late Qing Dynasty coveted by the western empire which had just completed the industrial revolution. In detail, we are not scholars, but we are consistent in our aversion to war and greed. Why do you end up chatting with a local about history and current affairs, or even listening to him complain about olhan Pamuk, an old man regarded as a great master of Turkish literature. Finally, I realized whether this person in front of me would be a "spiritual Party member"?
It's not dawn in Istanbul
The sunrise should be around 7 a.m., after the service. Walking alone in the streets of Istanbul, waiting for the city to wake up.
After walking towards the Galata bridge, early risers have taken ferries to the city. In this great city with a long history, Galata bridge is my favorite place to stay.
The bridge is manned from four or five o'clock every day. People often stay for a whole day. Nearby, there are mobile vendors who provide sweet tea and bread. They pull a cup of tea for one mile“ But in recent years, the fish are getting smaller and smaller. " Cadman added, "it's rare to see big fish here."
During the two days in Istanbul, I would squat here from time to time: watching the ferries and counting the fishing rods.
The Galatai bridge spans both sides of the Strait, and the Bosporus Strait in the middle connects Eurasia. People often have fun and date here. In Turkish, Bosphorus and "throat" are the same word. Pamuk interprets it as "a place to breathe fresh air". He once read that Pamuk also compared Bosphorus with the canals running through Amsterdam and Venice and the rivers dividing Paris and Rome. He thought Bosphorus was more passionate, which probably took time to experience.
Sea birds that fly across Eurasia countless times a day
The people on the bridge are fishing leisurely, and the fish market in the restaurant under the bridge is very lively. Looking for a circle, there is really no big fish... Istanbul, a historical city, was blessed as the world center by Napoleon. Think of her once a name, Byzantine period, her name is istantinople, Ottoman warriors down a continent of stars and moon, and then faced with the crisis of annihilation after World War I. The modernization of Kemal created the Republic of Turkey, which survived after the first World War. With such a long and painful history of blessing, if you look at this city again, you will inevitably feel a little sad.
"Everything has changed here since the founding of the Republic of Turkey in the 1920s. Even calendars and numbers. In the past, we used to use roman numbers and suddenly implemented Arabic numbers. Now some people in my mother's generation still use the calendars of the Ottoman Empire. But I like Turkey very much. That's why I don't like Pamuk. He doesn't look like turkey at all. He looks like a European! " Cardman made no secret of that, and his hands followed. Like kadman, many of the Young Turks I met were very patriotic. In Turkey, a man has to serve in the military for one year. Before he leaves, all the people he knows and doesn't know will gather to see him off and March, chanting "our soldier, big soldier!"! He raised the young man who was about to join the army on his shoulder and resisted him all the way to the bus. When I was on the bus late at night, I saw all the strangers around me singing the national anthem for the boy who was going to join the army, and I praised the Turkish people from the bottom of my heart.
The streets of Istanbul are very suitable for the violent walk mode, and people's livelihood is everywhere.
What's gratifying about the architecture here is that many traces of the past are still there, coexisting with modern architecture and complementing each other.
There are many vendors selling boiled corn and chestnuts, but the mode of going out early and coming back late is not slow, and few of them specially solicit them.
It's a country that likes to eat meat and pancakes, but is it really OK to have such a heavy mouth in the early morning... I remember eating near the Maiden Tower, and I saw someone eating pancakes with dry bread without sauce... Watching him eat, my throat was dry.
An Italian friend once told me that there is a sentence in Italian to describe a smoker: "you smoke like a Turk!" Why did Turks get shot? After a round of inquiry, Mr. Cadman finally answered my question. Earlier on, almost all Turks smoked. No wonder they were taken as a topic by other countries. It's just that today's young people are much more restrained.
After a two-day rampage in Istanbul, St. Sophia's Cathedral is bound to visit some popular scenic spots. Aya Sofya is not only a Christian Church, but also a mosque, which is very special. Christian churches in Byzantine times were transformed into mosques by the Ottoman Turks when they conquered Constantinople in 1453. With the establishment of the Republic of Turkey, the church opened to the world as a museum. At the time of the visit, the interior of Sophia Cathedral was still under repair, but the momentum remained the same.
No demolition, no waste, ready-made resources can be used. I want to praise the decision-making of Osman Sudan. As a result, great buildings have been preserved to this day.
It's very recommended to open the hall at 9 o'clock, which can save the extra long queuing time and capture the moment of light pouring into the church from the window.
Next to the museum is independence street, a busy commercial street like Nanjing East Road in Shanghai, full of shops, restaurants and coffee shops. The difference is that the Dangdang cars here are very eye-catching. Independence street is about 4 kilometers long, with Gala tower at one end and Taksim square at the other. I was thinking about when I would meet the shift. Five minutes later, I turned around and took a snapshot.
Look, there are people inside and outside the door. Because the speed is very slow, it's safe to "hang" on the car.
Inadvertently passing by at night, people do not see less, red car is still in. It's dusk to walk along independence avenue to galataita. With a height of seven stories, the tower is one of the best places to watch the sunset, overlooking the Bosporus Strait and the Eurasian land bridge in the afterglow.
If you don't want to queue up to climb the tower, the streets around galateta are worth visiting. There are a variety of cafes, restaurants and small shops.
Viewing galataita from afar
Before I came to Turkey, I thought that the hot air balloon of kapadochia was the place where I could get out. But when I came back to sort out the pictures, I found that looking at the pictures instead would make people love more places.
In the busy tourist district, there are always people sitting in the corner, very quiet. Yeah, it's easy that I feel Istanbul.
When we reach the top of Galata, half of the red sun is left.
The seagull, which stops occasionally, becomes a living model for tourists. At the beginning of the day, the night is not bright. Istanbul is not enough.
Another night in Istanbul, I went to the Maiden Tower to watch the sunset. The Maiden's Tower on the island of Bosporus is just a small lighthouse. When night falls, many Turkish lovers gather here. It is said that there are different versions of sad stories here. Originally for military purposes, they are stained with sad waves in the change of the century.
This is Istanbul, which I met for the first time. It's easy and memorable.
Kapadochia - romance in legend
"Facing the Rose Valley, enjoy a hot-air balloon feast and a cup of hot wine in the cool wind."
When it comes to Turkey, if you think of hot-air balloons, cave hotels and alien landscapes, then this place is kapadukiya.
There are many and similar cave hotels in kapadochia. For choosing a hotel, my original intention is: 1. Avoid wanghong Hotel, because I don't want to line up to take photos, especially the self portrait type of traveling alone... I just want to be alone... 2. In addition to the scenery of the hotel terrace, the room type is also very important.
The remote control is still in hand
The sunrise time on the hotel terrace
After three days in kapadochia, I ordered two hotels. By comparison, I would recommend this Harman cave hotel. Few people on the terrace can take self portraits at ease. I chose fairy chimney, which is more expensive. The photos show that my choice is too correct. However, I suggest choosing another house for the basic room type.
Self portrait in the room, of course, the hotel is good at fighting with shoelaces of the little suckling dog, is also one of the reasons I like here.
Through the hotel, we directly ordered the hot air balloon trip: 150 euro / person. At the beginning, I wanted to choose butterfly 165 euro. After listening to the hotel's suggestions, I chose the one that the hotel often cooperates with.
It's more than five o'clock. It's still cold. The cold weather before take-off eased a lot after the fire.
Everyone queued into the box. When the balloon huff fork slowly rose, there were still hot-air balloons waiting to take off in the distance. They were put together and looked very lovely. The hot air balloon feast at sunrise overlooks the desolate and magnificent karst landscape.
The flight time is one hour, overlooking the gremay Museum, Rose Valley, uchishar and other scenic spots.
Around me are a Swiss couple and a South African couple. At this time, I really need a romantic lover to take photos.
At the end of the flight, the tourists were busy taking group photos and opening champagne to celebrate, while the staff were busy collecting balloons.
In addition to the hotel terrace and hot air balloon, I highly recommend Goreme sunset point, which is also the place where I met Guha.
This viewing platform has been up and down three or four times. It needs to climb a mountain. The sunset and sunrise are different scenes. At sunset, you can see the most charming golden red color of Rose Valley, while at sunrise, you can see the scene of ballooning. These two periods are also the peak periods of people flow. From the viewing platform, you can also see the castle of uchishsar from a distance, which is also the commanding height of gremay.
It was only at this moment that I realized that the difference between a big balloon company and a small one may be that you rarely experience the closeness of holding hands with tourists in the valley as shown in the figure below.
Cappadoccia, I stayed for 3 days, if I just experienced 2-3 days, it's almost the same. As for the popular red line (9:30am-4:30pm) and green line group (9:30am-6:00pm), I chose the red line which is not so hot, and the green line is walking and closer to nature. The red line is a bit more historical and cultural.
In addition to the highest cactus chimney in Cappadocia, cactus chimneys in basalt are all multi headed and pointed hat. It is formed by volcanic rocks after earthquake splitting and long-term wind and rain erosion. Some column mushroom heads have fallen, leaving only the standing stones of the body.
Fethier - shangtianhai
"Have you ever flown?"“ I've played skydive. It's totally different from paramailing“ After that, the coach took me straight to the cliff.
Fethier is famous for paragliding in the dead sea. According to the local people, apart from parachuting, there is a 7-day lcian way trekking (hiking) that is highly recommended.
Irudaniz beach is a vast beach and the Mediterranean coast of the turquoise forest, overlooking the super blue lagoon in the mountains, which is also a very special experience. I thought it wasn't exciting to have a coach with me, but when the coach performed the special effects of fast rotation and weightlessness, the self righteous person said: I'm going to throw up
The coach said, this is the limit speed according to your requirements. If it's faster, you'll fly out. After looking at his innocent face behind me, I can't help saying that he was just stimulated to vomit, which will scare him.
After the parachute jump, I ate pomegranate with the coaches and had a chat with them. He recommended that I should go to Patara in the future. That's the birthplace of Saint Nicholas and emmm. Who is emmm? The prototype of Santa Claus!
I ran to the beach of erdonez, where there are many people flying alone.
It's a perfect landing. I stayed in hotel unique, a recommended hotel. It's just that the hotel is located in the urban area, and the nearby Bay is mostly a speedboat. If you want to enjoy the sunshine beach, it's better to fly paragliding on the beach of erdeniz.
Along the way, I will pass by an unknown little relic. The driver (also one of the coaches) motioned me to have a look. It is a relic where the Greeks once lived.
On the way, I took a ride with a girl for three days, from fethier To Antalya. She is a perfect wine maker. After we met at the hotel, we drove for 5 minutes (15 minutes' walk) to a viewing platform where we could enjoy the whole city.
Maybe it's the pomegranate season, which makes me a hand addict who hasn't seen pomegranate trees very much.
At night, fethier looks more quiet and beautiful under the light.
The night view of fethier from the hotel
Santa's birthplace and cash
"Isn't Turkey just big cakes, big meat, but Dad?"“ Of course not! " In Kashgar, I finally saw the authentic turkish dishes and the strange national drinking.
From Fethiye to Kashi, you will pass the ancient ruins of Patara (Pantera) and kaputas beach on D400, which is known as the most beautiful coastal highway. Fethier's paraglider coach has always recommended our Panthera coastline and told me that Panthera is the birthplace of Saint Nicholas. Oh, who is Nicholas? Say Santa Claus, we all know that he is the prototype of Santa Claus.
Saint Nicholas is a real bishop in the history of Turkey. At the end of the third century, he was born in Panthera on the Mediterranean coast. Although he was born in a rich family, he was careful, kind and charitable, and often helped the poor. Saint Nicholas likes to give gifts to the local poor anonymously. After his death in 346 ad, he was honored as a saint, and his deeds later evolved into the legend of Santa Claus today.
I really like this kind of unexpected travel that adds knowledge. It was a mistake to find this relic. What GPS located was Patara beach, but it was brought here and bought a ticket card for many times.
Turkey has many relics of the ancient civilization of Lucia. Although it's a pity that we didn't go to Izmir on this journey, the relics here in pantela are also very shocking.
There is a huge abandoned theater in the center of the relic. Climbing up the steps, you can overlook the panoramic view of the relic wrapped in continuous hills.
Not far away is the junction of Patara sea beach.
Leave Patara and drive to the coastal highway of Kashgar. It's easy to find kaputas beach. The beach is small, because it's not the peak season for tourism, so people don't have as much sun exposure as the photos on the Internet. It's easy to find parking spaces beside the road.
I flew a UAV by the side of the road. It's a good view
Ancient Greek and Roman people really love watching plays. There are theatres everywhere. Looking up the information, we find that the Roman people of more than 2000 years can enjoy life more than we think. In addition to wars, gatherings and elections, bathing, watching plays and fighting were the three major hobbies of the ancient Romans. To take a bath, you need to go to the public baths built in various cities and towns, to watch plays and gladiator competitions, and you need to go to the special amphitheater, also known as the Colosseum and arena.
Whether to stand up or not, I hesitated for a moment, and finally sat down. Experience is, next time you play UAV selfie, don't wear black (as shown in the figure below).
After shooting the sunrise, take a stroll around this Mediterranean fishing port town. At about nine o'clock, many shops were not open yet.
In the center of the city is also a bay full of speedboats
Since the beginning of November, Turkey has basically entered the off-season of tourism. Many hotels in the town are open for half a year and closed for half a year. It's nice to see Kashi town at night. After buying ice cream, they had a random walk. On both sides of Shilu street, there are many restaurants, coffee shops, bookstores, carpet shops and jewelry.
Looking for Turkish red wine by self driving
Turkish wine? I haven't tried Cheap and delicious This is the beginning of a couple's journey to find wine
On the way from Kashi To Antalya, the girl proposed to go to a winery. Looking for wine is her specialty. It's a blessing to have such a professional wine maker on the road together. Leaving the coastline, we drove into the mainland by mountain road. Because grape planting has a unique taste in the mountain terrain, so the liqua winery is naturally on the mountain. "I prefer to know the story behind it when it comes to finding wine," he said. Turkish wine must have Turkish flavor, which is the premise of high praise. "“ What is the taste of Turkey? "“ For example, the terrain and climate of Turkey determine the quality and taste of grapes, which will be different from other places. " A sudden answer!
Is this a good place for road blockbusters?
Autumn senior grey! It took almost 2 hours to arrive at the winery, including the time for us to steal pomegranates and take photos to enjoy the beautiful scenery. Likya winery is not big, and it is even a very simple decoration. It is opened by two Turkish brothers. We need to communicate in advance before visiting, so it is likely that we will be shut down if we come to the winery directly.
This winery produces more than 30 kinds of wine, which is quite a lot and has won many awards. We chose five kinds, and tasted them from light to strong. Although not as professional as the girls of the same trade, the wine produced by the barrel is still good. The red wine with strong tannin and acidity also attracts me. It costs 30 lira per person to taste wine, and a large plate of cheese is given as a gift. I beat the table and exclaimed that this Turkish red wine is really cheap!
It's a pity that we have to throw up after tasting because we have to continue driving. How much perseverance can you hold back
Finally, we all bought a red wine named okuzgozu, which has a slightly sweet rose fragrance and is suitable for girls. In addition, we chose a white grape stored in oak barrels as a gift, and bought a bottle of Volkswagen white Fuji wine as the next wine of the evening.
Antalya - cats in the old city
I squatted down and lowered myself to a position where they could see each other. They would come over on their own initiative. This is the cat I met in Turkey.
They will lie in the middle of the road like no one else, and pedestrians will come and go as usual.
After a three-day tour with friends, I strolled alone in the old city of Antalya for half a day,
The movie Love Cat City says, "a cat mews on your feet and looks up at you. In fact, it's life's smile on you." Antalya is the largest city on the south coast of Turkey. I stayed in a small town a few days ago. When I suddenly drove into the city, I thought I had crossed it. Living in the old city, there are many characteristic hotels and restaurants transformed from old houses, but parking is not very convenient. Settle down and take a look at this old town in the center of Antalya, a village with a history of thousands of years.
Near noon, the shops are open one after another, and the lazy Yanggu sprinkles into the streets of the old city.
Occasionally, you will find something very interesting.
I found that the old city's street is the sea. I like this kind of street. I can see the end of the world at the corner. It's a surprise.
Where there is sea, there must be ice cream. Turkey's ice cream is still to try, the texture is more sticky, probably in order to keep it from dropping when playing tricks.
Many local people sit by the sea in a daze and watch the boats passing by occasionally
Tourists enjoying the Mediterranean holiday. At the end of the trip, I said to my friends, I really want to take all the street cats home and enjoy them. It's just a dream. A country with cats, both lucky and happy!
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